Soaring 4,000-feet in a glider plane above the picturesque Finger Lakes region of New York, we’re rewarded with a bird’s eye view of an area rich in museums, wineries, sports, history and more.
With the colorful foliage, manageable crowds and lower temperatures, the fall is a perfect time to visit some of the 11 lakes in west-central New York. About four hours from the Delaware Valley is the City of Corning which features a vibrant main street, called the Gaffer District, and is home to art galleries and restaurants, including the fantastic Gaffer Grille and Tap Room, as well as a world-class museum. Staying at the Radisson Hotel was in walking distance to many of the attractions.
There are many cities that have been made famous by a single industry. Hershey, Pa., has its chocolate. Kohler, Wis., has its faucets. Corning has glass - and lots of it. In 1868 the Brooklyn Flint Glass Works moved to Corning, changed its name to Corning Flint Glass Work, and sold its cut glass all over the United States and abroad. Before entering The Corning Museum of Glass you should be aware that this museum is a major draw for the area. It has gift shops, workshops and lanes for the many charter buses that visit daily. Be prepared to see craftsman, school kids, visitors from many countries and parents pushing strollers.
Despite the crowds the museum, which is free for those ages 17 and younger, handles its traffic efficiently and courteously. For those of you that find glass an interesting topic, you will not be disappointed. For those of you that wonder why glass should have its own museum I think you will be surprised. There are galleries featuring glass “Glass in the Islamic World” from the 10th Century, as well as “The Rise of Venetian Glass” from the 15th Century.
After touring the museum, Kevin and I were inspired to visit the Make Your Own Glass workshop. From hot glass working, to flameworking, to fusing, to sandblasting — you and your family can do just about anything with glass. With the help of experienced glass workers, visitors of all ages can pick a project such as a nightlight or clock or a seasonal design like a pumpkin. Since spots fill quickly, try booking your experience online before your visit. Checking in for our noon appointment, we put on our provided protective aprons and gloves and went to work to make our flowers. The heat from the furnaces was intense and impressive, as I swiftly manipulated a pliable blob of glass that eventually turned into a recognizable flower shape. Using traditional glassmaking tools, I quickly stretch and shape the molten glass before it cools and becomes stiff. Once my flower was sculpted, I proudly placed it in the oven for an overnight slow cooling process.
In addition to glassmaking, another aspect of Corning that we found out was the area’s well-known (to locals anyway) speed trap. A $200 speeding ticket, plus a $300 driver responsibility assessment from the New York State Department of Motor Vehicles was a tough lesson to receive for driving 14 mph over the speed limit while on vacation.
The sky's the limit
On a beautiful, sunny day, and determined to put aside the speeding encounter from the night before, we headed over to nearby Harris Hill. Nicknamed the “Soaring Capital of America,” I was excited yet nervous for my first ever flight in a glider plane. A glider is an aircraft without an engine and is supported in flight by the dynamic reaction of the air against its lifting surfaces.
First we toured the National Soaring Museum, which tells the history of motorless aviation. We learned about milestone flying feats such as John C. Barstow’s flight of 15 hours 13 minutes, on April 29-30, 1930. We saw the DFS Olympia Meise, and learned that gliding was a demonstration sport in the 1936 Summer Olympics in Berlin.
Be prepared to wait if you’d like to experience gliding. There are no reservations and flights are first come first serve. Rides run from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on weekends from April through October. During the summer, the Harris Hill Soaring Corporation operates seven days a week from late June through August.
Finally it’s was my turn in the glider! Trying to hide my fearfulness, I step into a two-seat, German-built, ASK glider with a FAA-approved commercial glider pilot, Evan. As he went over a small tutorial of the gauges in front of me (that you can only see once the canopy is closed), the glider is attached with a 200-foot, polyester rope to the rear of a single-engine Pawnee Piper plane. I hear the plane power-up, towing my glider behind as we slowly begin to roll forward.
Once you lift off the runway, you're treated to an eye-opening view, that is pretty much 360 degrees because of the full glass canopy. In the air, lakes are visible to the north with Elmira and Corning to the southeast and northwest, respectively. Once the plane glider reached about 4,000-feet over the airport, the glider pilot pulled a lever releasing the tow rope from the glider, with a pop. When the actual gliding started you are immediately greeted with two surprises. First, the glider is incredibly quiet. Second, with no engines, you feel the aircraft move up and down with the rolling winds. The feeling was amazing and the view of the surrounding countryside was breathtaking.
Evan, 19, made sure to act as tour guide as well as pilot. A student at Penn State University, Evan talked about how much he enjoyed his perfect summer job flying excited tourists above the Finger Lakes region. While he announced every attempt to find updrafts, he always interjected with interesting things to point out. The Elmira Corning Regional Airport, where NASCAR drivers arrive when there is a race at Watkins Glen. The house he grew up in, where he first dreamed of flying. The
local drive-in movie theater is just a small white rectangle.
Taking visual cues from the ground, radio towers, nearby wind farms and the rounded towers of cumulus clouds which are formed by updrafts, our pilot slowly circled around the airstrip. Below you could see our towplane land, line-up and tow another glider to soar 1,000-feet beneath us.
Trolley into Twain Country
If you’re a fan of Huckleberry Finn and Mark Finn, then a visit to the nearby Elmira and the Chemung County Historical Society is a must. Samuel Clemens (better known as Mark Twain) became a fixture in the area when he married Olivia Langdon, an Elmira native, in 1870.
During our trolley tour, our guide Mark took us to Twain’s octagonal study which now sits on the campus of Elmira College. Built for him as a gift by his sister-in-law, Clemens wrote some his most famous works including “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer” and “The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn” in the private den which is modeled after a Mississippi steamboat pilot house (an ode to his onetime profession). The Clemens visited their Langdon family in Elmira every summer for nearly 20 years. The study was relocated from Quarry Farm to the Elmira College campus for preservation in 1952.
Passing the stately Victorian era homes in the Maple Avenue District, our guide tells us there was once a Civil War prisoner of war camp in Elmira. Dubbed "Hellmira" by its inmates, the Elmira Prison was in use for just over a year from July 6 1864 to July 11, 1865.
Nearly 3,000 prisoners would die from a mix of malnutrition, disease and exposure. John W. Jones, a local sexton and an ex-slave, oversaw the burials at Woodlawn National Cemetery. Jones was also an active agent in the Underground Railroad, and Elmira was a major stop for many runaway slaves on their way to Canada. The John W. Jones, which is across from the cemetery, is now a museum.
Being so far north of the Mason-Dixon Line, it’s striking to see a Confederate Battle Flag flying. The flag is near a Confederate soldier monument in the cemetery which was erected by the United Daughters of the Confederacy in 1937.
Lakes Keuka and Seneca
Home to more than 100 wineries, breweries and distilleries centered around Keuka, Seneca, and Cayuga lakes, we had countless rieslings, craft beers and liqueurs to choose from. Most wineries have a tasting fee averaging $5 per person, which is often refunded with a purchase of wine. Most wineries are open year-round, though during the winter some do close for the season or have limited visiting hours. Nestled into a hillside and overlooking Keuka Lake is Heron Hill Winery, one of the best wineries we visited. The family-owned winery, which marked its 40th anniversary earlier this year, featured crisp and light Rieslings and aromatic dry Chardonnays.
Driving to Watkins Glen, home to Watkins Glen International, an automobile race track, we head to Summit to Stream Adventures for a kayaking trip on Lake Seneca. The lake, the largest of the Finger Lakes and the deepest lake entirely within the state, is quiet and calm as we paddle towards the rushing Hector Falls. After nearly three hours of kayaking, we were fatigued and famished. A late lunch at The Wildflower Cafe and Crooked Rooster Brewpub in Watkins Glen left us rejuvenated and recharged as we started our way back home.
Though it was an action packed three days, we barely scratched the surface of all the amazing activities the Finger Lakes has to offer. There's something for everyone.
With the colorful foliage, manageable crowds and lower temperatures, the fall is a perfect time to visit some of the 11 lakes in west-central New York. About four hours from the Delaware Valley is the City of Corning which features a vibrant main street, called the Gaffer District, and is home to art galleries and restaurants, including the fantastic Gaffer Grille and Tap Room, as well as a world-class museum. Staying at the Radisson Hotel was in walking distance to many of the attractions.
There are many cities that have been made famous by a single industry. Hershey, Pa., has its chocolate. Kohler, Wis., has its faucets. Corning has glass - and lots of it. In 1868 the Brooklyn Flint Glass Works moved to Corning, changed its name to Corning Flint Glass Work, and sold its cut glass all over the United States and abroad. Before entering The Corning Museum of Glass you should be aware that this museum is a major draw for the area. It has gift shops, workshops and lanes for the many charter buses that visit daily. Be prepared to see craftsman, school kids, visitors from many countries and parents pushing strollers.
Despite the crowds the museum, which is free for those ages 17 and younger, handles its traffic efficiently and courteously. For those of you that find glass an interesting topic, you will not be disappointed. For those of you that wonder why glass should have its own museum I think you will be surprised. There are galleries featuring glass “Glass in the Islamic World” from the 10th Century, as well as “The Rise of Venetian Glass” from the 15th Century.
 |
After touring the museum, Kevin and I were inspired to visit the Make Your Own Glass workshop. From hot glass working, to flameworking, to fusing, to sandblasting — you and your family can do just about anything with glass. With the help of experienced glass workers, visitors of all ages can pick a project such as a nightlight or clock or a seasonal design like a pumpkin. Since spots fill quickly, try booking your experience online before your visit. Checking in for our noon appointment, we put on our provided protective aprons and gloves and went to work to make our flowers. The heat from the furnaces was intense and impressive, as I swiftly manipulated a pliable blob of glass that eventually turned into a recognizable flower shape. Using traditional glassmaking tools, I quickly stretch and shape the molten glass before it cools and becomes stiff. Once my flower was sculpted, I proudly placed it in the oven for an overnight slow cooling process.
In addition to glassmaking, another aspect of Corning that we found out was the area’s well-known (to locals anyway) speed trap. A $200 speeding ticket, plus a $300 driver responsibility assessment from the New York State Department of Motor Vehicles was a tough lesson to receive for driving 14 mph over the speed limit while on vacation.
The sky's the limit
On a beautiful, sunny day, and determined to put aside the speeding encounter from the night before, we headed over to nearby Harris Hill. Nicknamed the “Soaring Capital of America,” I was excited yet nervous for my first ever flight in a glider plane. A glider is an aircraft without an engine and is supported in flight by the dynamic reaction of the air against its lifting surfaces.
 |
| Pilot Evan prepares Kevin for the flight. |
Be prepared to wait if you’d like to experience gliding. There are no reservations and flights are first come first serve. Rides run from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on weekends from April through October. During the summer, the Harris Hill Soaring Corporation operates seven days a week from late June through August.
 |
| The Pawnee Piper plane tows us up into the sky. |
Once you lift off the runway, you're treated to an eye-opening view, that is pretty much 360 degrees because of the full glass canopy. In the air, lakes are visible to the north with Elmira and Corning to the southeast and northwest, respectively. Once the plane glider reached about 4,000-feet over the airport, the glider pilot pulled a lever releasing the tow rope from the glider, with a pop. When the actual gliding started you are immediately greeted with two surprises. First, the glider is incredibly quiet. Second, with no engines, you feel the aircraft move up and down with the rolling winds. The feeling was amazing and the view of the surrounding countryside was breathtaking.
 |
| Amy and Kevin after their flight with Evan (center). |
Taking visual cues from the ground, radio towers, nearby wind farms and the rounded towers of cumulus clouds which are formed by updrafts, our pilot slowly circled around the airstrip. Below you could see our towplane land, line-up and tow another glider to soar 1,000-feet beneath us.
The trip ends with a smooth approach, a light landing and great memories of gliding in the Soaring Capital of the World. Another pilot hooked a tether to our plane and towed us, by golf cart, back to the start of the runway.
Trolley into Twain Country
If you’re a fan of Huckleberry Finn and Mark Finn, then a visit to the nearby Elmira and the Chemung County Historical Society is a must. Samuel Clemens (better known as Mark Twain) became a fixture in the area when he married Olivia Langdon, an Elmira native, in 1870.
 |
| Mark Twain's octagonal study in Elmira. |
During our trolley tour, our guide Mark took us to Twain’s octagonal study which now sits on the campus of Elmira College. Built for him as a gift by his sister-in-law, Clemens wrote some his most famous works including “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer” and “The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn” in the private den which is modeled after a Mississippi steamboat pilot house (an ode to his onetime profession). The Clemens visited their Langdon family in Elmira every summer for nearly 20 years. The study was relocated from Quarry Farm to the Elmira College campus for preservation in 1952.
Passing the stately Victorian era homes in the Maple Avenue District, our guide tells us there was once a Civil War prisoner of war camp in Elmira. Dubbed "Hellmira" by its inmates, the Elmira Prison was in use for just over a year from July 6 1864 to July 11, 1865.
 |
| Woodlawn National Cemetery. |
Nearly 3,000 prisoners would die from a mix of malnutrition, disease and exposure. John W. Jones, a local sexton and an ex-slave, oversaw the burials at Woodlawn National Cemetery. Jones was also an active agent in the Underground Railroad, and Elmira was a major stop for many runaway slaves on their way to Canada. The John W. Jones, which is across from the cemetery, is now a museum.
Being so far north of the Mason-Dixon Line, it’s striking to see a Confederate Battle Flag flying. The flag is near a Confederate soldier monument in the cemetery which was erected by the United Daughters of the Confederacy in 1937.
Nearby is another monument, one dedicated to hometown hero Ernie Davis. A football star at Elmira Free Academy and Syracuse University, Davis was the first African-American to win the Heisman Trophy. Soon after he was named the first pick in the 1962 NFL draft, Davis was diagnosed with leukemia. He died less than a year later at the age of 23, having never played a professional game.
Lakes Keuka and Seneca
Home to more than 100 wineries, breweries and distilleries centered around Keuka, Seneca, and Cayuga lakes, we had countless rieslings, craft beers and liqueurs to choose from. Most wineries have a tasting fee averaging $5 per person, which is often refunded with a purchase of wine. Most wineries are open year-round, though during the winter some do close for the season or have limited visiting hours. Nestled into a hillside and overlooking Keuka Lake is Heron Hill Winery, one of the best wineries we visited. The family-owned winery, which marked its 40th anniversary earlier this year, featured crisp and light Rieslings and aromatic dry Chardonnays.
 |
| Kevin displays his kayaking skills. |
Driving to Watkins Glen, home to Watkins Glen International, an automobile race track, we head to Summit to Stream Adventures for a kayaking trip on Lake Seneca. The lake, the largest of the Finger Lakes and the deepest lake entirely within the state, is quiet and calm as we paddle towards the rushing Hector Falls. After nearly three hours of kayaking, we were fatigued and famished. A late lunch at The Wildflower Cafe and Crooked Rooster Brewpub in Watkins Glen left us rejuvenated and recharged as we started our way back home.
Though it was an action packed three days, we barely scratched the surface of all the amazing activities the Finger Lakes has to offer. There's something for everyone.
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